How Long Should A Garage Door Opener Last?

How long should a typical garage door opener last? You may be asking yourself this question because your garage door operator started "acting up" or parts on the operator started failing. According to a survey done by the NAHB (National Association of Home Builders) based on responses from manufacturers, trade associations, and product researchers the average life expectancy of a garage door operator is 10 to 15 years.

Right now you're probably thinking to yourself..."ten years, that's not a very long time". You're right, it isn't. But you have to remember that this is an average and there are a lot of factors such as the quality of the operator, how the opener was maintained, how often the opener is used, etc. The most important factor though in determining how long an opener might last is how well the garage door works.

A poorly maintained garage door is going to shorten the life of the garage door opener faster than anything else. The springs on the garage door are engineered to do most of the lifting of the door not the operator. The garage door opener basically is used to put the door in motion so if the springs aren't doing their job or the door hinges, cables and rollers aren't in good working condition then the operator is going to be doing more than it was designed to do. And with a poorly balanced door the garage door opener is going to wear out much faster and parts in the opener are going to need to be replaced much sooner.

Here are some quick tips to help you keep your door in shape and to help extend the life of your operator. And just a reminder: if you are not comfortable or you are unable to do service to your garage door then call your local service company and have them do the preventative maintenance for you.

1. Check The Balance: a properly balanced door will reduce a lot of the strain on the opener. You'll need to pull the red disconnect cord on the trolley (do this while the door is in the closed position). This will release the trolley so the door can be opened and closed manually. You should be able to lift the door half way and it will stay there. If the door slams back to the floor then spring tension needs to be added and if the door flies open then the spring tension needs to be reduced. CAUTION: IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO ADJUST THE SPRINGS PROPERLY THEN CALL A PROFESSIONAL....the springs can be very dangerous and cause injury.
2. Lube The Door: lubrication of the moving parts on the door will make the door work smoother. Lubricate the hinges, rollers, springs and pulleys (if your door has pulleys). Use a chain & cable fluid or silicone based lubricant...don't use WD40, this will get tacky & attract dirt. 3-in-One Professional Garage Door Lube is a silicone based lube and works great on garage doors. Also spray some lubricant on the opener chain (if your opener has a chain). If you have a belt opener don't spray anything on it.
3. Check The Door Cables: the door will either have extension spring cables or torsion spring cables. Extension springs stretch back along the tracks while torsion springs are on a torsion bar mounted above the door on the header. Over time the cables can fray so it's best to replace them before they break. Take a rag and run it along the length of the cables. If the rag gets snagged at any point then that will give you an indication that the cable is probably fraying & should be replaced. DON'T REMOVE THE CABLES without releasing the spring tension first. Again if you are not comfortable please call a professional.  
4. Check The Hinges & Rollers: the hinges hold all of the door sections together while the door rollers keep the sections in the track and keep the door rolling smoothly. Inspect all the hinges for cracks or tears in the metal of the hinges. Stress from the door binding could cause a hinge to break. Look over all the rollers and make sure they are all rolling freely. The average life of a roller is 10 - 12 years depending on how much the door is used and how well the door is maintained. The garage door hinges and door rollers can be replaced on an individual basis if any damaged or broken ones are found.

An annual maintenance should be done to extend the life of the opener and garage door. By showing a little attention to the door and opener you'll not only get a few more years out of them but you'll also have peace of mind knowing that your garage door & opener are operating properly and safely.

Looking for replacement garage door hinges, rollers, cables, pulleys or brackets? Shop for all of your garage door replacement parts at the Garage Door Zone Store.

Liftmaster Garage Door Safety Sensors

Liftmaster garage door operators have two different styles of photo-electric safety sensors. So which one do you buy when yours stop working? That's going to depend on how old your operator is. You'll either have the older 41A4373A Liftmaster bolt style that bolts through the mounting bracket or the newer 41A5034 Liftmaster "Snappy Sensors" that snap into the mounting bracket.

41A4373A Sensors (old style)

The 41A4373A Safety Sensors are compatible with Liftmaster operators manufactured from 1993 to 1997. You can tell this is the sensor you need by the bolt that goes through the center of sensor and bolts to the bracket. They're compatible with opener models 1240, 1245, 1246, 1250, 1255, 1256, 1260 and ATS. Compatible with Liftmaster, Sears, Craftsman, Chamberlain and Raynor openers manufactured since 2000.

41A5034 Sensors (new style)

The newer 41A5034 Snappy Sensors are compatible with Liftmaster operators manufactured from 1997 to current. You can recognize the Snappy Sensors because they snap into the mounting brackets. These sensors work with operator models 1265, 2265, 2280, 2500, 2580 and other current models. Compatible with Liftmaster, Sears, Craftsman and Chamberlain.

As much of a pain the safety sensors are (especially when they're not working) you need to have them. They offer protection from the garage door operator closing on your car, yourself or a loved one. You'll know they're not working if your remote won't close the door and you have to use constant pressure on the wall button to get the door to close. This doesn't mean they're broke it just means they aren't working properly. Before you buy a new set of sensors check and make sure there's nothing blocking the sensors, there's no loose wires and the sensors are "looking" at each other & aren't knocked out of alignment. If you've done that and they still don't work then you'll probably have to get new sensors.

UPDATE: Due to the 41A4373A Sensors (old style) being discontinued we've updated this post

41A5266-3 Sensor Brackets

If you determine that you have the 41A4373A Sensors (old style) then you can go with the option of using the 41A5034 Sensors (new style) but you'll also need to use the 41A5266-3 Safety Sensor Mounting Brackets since the sensors mount differently from the old 41A4373A Sensors.

You can purchase the newer 41A5034 Sensors here and the 41A5266-3 Sensor Brackets here at the Garage Door Zone.

Replacement Remote For Marantec Mac Lift Deluxe 2005 Garage Door Opener

Do you have a Marantec Mac-Lift Deluxe 2005 garage door opener with a broken or missing garage door remote?  Marantec no longer offers the original remotes listed here:

•  ML-1401, ML-1402, ML-1404, ML-2401, ML-2402, ML-2204 (40MHz frequency)
•  ML-1391, ML-1392, ML-1394,ML-2391, ML-2392, ML-2394 (390MHz frequency)

If you have one of the discontinued remotes listed above then there is a simple solution to finding a replacement remote. You'll need to add a 75424 Plug-in Radio Receiver. Marantec offers this replacement kit to replace all of the obsolete radio controls.

Installing the 75424 Plug-in Radio Receiver Set is pretty easy. The radio receiver unit plugs into an electrical outlet. Two wires are then run from the receiver to the powerhead motor unit (2-strand wire included with the set). After the wires are connected press the program button on the receiver unit then press the button on the M3-2312 Remote (included with the set). The remote is now programmed to the receiver and will open and close the door.

It's a simple solution to a common problem and should give you many more years of use from your Marantec Mac-Lift Deluxe 2005 garage door opener. You can find the 75424 Plug-in Radio Receiver Set here along with other packages including two remotes and keyless entry.

41A4885-2 Gear Assembly for Raynor 1280RGD Aviator Opener

The gear assembly in the Raynor 1280RGD Aviator garage door operator can wear out or break over time. The good news is that the operator can be fixed.

The replacement 41A4885-2 Gear Assembly is for the Raynor 1280RGD Aviator operator (mfg before 2002). If you happen to have a newer 2280RGD or 3280RGD Aviator operator then you'll need the 41A4885-5 Gear Assembly.


With a little time and patience you should be able to have your operator fixed in an hour or two by following the installation instructions.

Visit the Garage Door Zone Store to purchase the 41A4885-2 Gear Assembly

41C4220A Replacement Gear - Raynor Pilot Opener (1265RGD/2265RGD/3265RGD)

Over time the gear assembly in the Raynor Pilot garage door opener (models 1265RGD, 2265RGD, and 3265RGD) can wear out. Most gear assemblies tend to last 6 - 10 years but that can vary on the amount of use the opener has seen and how much maintenance and upkeep has been done on the door & opener over the years.

With a little bit of time and patience the gear assembly can be replaced in an hour or two by following the installation instructions and the operator should be good for another 6 - 10 years.

Visit the Garage Door Zone Store to purchase the 41C4220A Raynor Pilot garage door opener replacement gear assembly.

My Garage Door Remote Stopped Working - HELP!

Did your garage door opener remote stop working for some unknown reason? Not to worry - there's probably a simple solution.

Here are some things to look for before you call your local service company and possibly save yourself being charged a service call:

CHECK THE WALL STATION: Most garage door openers have a wall station. Some just have a doorbell type button (if this is you then skip this step). If your operator uses a wall station then there are probably three buttons: an open/close button, a light button and a lockout button. Most people are familiar with the first two buttons, it's the 3rd button we want to look at - the lockout button. If this button is inadvertently engaged it will lockout all of the remotes programmed into the operator. Some wall stations will flash or have a small LED blink if the lockout is engaged. If your wall station has a lockout switch just slide the switch to the unlock position. If the lockout is a button you may have to hold the button in for 3 or 4 seconds to disengage the lockout feature. Refer to your operator manual for directions for your particular operator.

 

CHECK THE BATTERY: It's possible the battery in the remote is weak and not putting out a strong enough signal to activate the operator. Some of the 12-volt alkaline batteries that some remotes use can last 5 - 7 years. Other remotes may use the common 3-volt lithium battery but may only last 2 - 3 years. It's all going to depend on how often the remote gets used.

REPROGRAM THE REMOTE: It's possible the remote has "lost the code" which means it is no        longer communicating with the opener. You'll need to refer to your particular garage door opener manual to determine exactly how to program the remote since every manufacturer is a little different but it's usually pretty easy to do.   

REPLACE THE REMOTE: If you've tried the three suggestions above and the remote still does not work then it's possible the remote may need replaced. This is especially true if you have another remote that does work and these remedies didn't get your other remote to work. If you have more than one remote and you can't get any of them to work (but the wall station does work) then most likely the radio receiver on the operator has failed. A new radio receiver can be added to the operator and your old remotes can be programmed into the new receiver.

If you have any specific questions feel free to leave a comment below or email us directly at store@garagedoorzone.com and we'll try to help you.                                                                 

CFL Bulbs May Interfere With Your Garage Door Opener

With the economy being what it is people are looking at all of the appliances in their home and trying to find ways to cut costs. One cost saving measure is to replace the normal incandescent light bulbs in light fixtures and lamps with CFL (compact fluorescent lights). Although this may be good practice for your house lamps it's not such a good idea for your garage door opener. According to recent articles CFL light bulbs can cause interference with the radio receiver and remotes on the garage door operator.  The following was stated on the General Electric website:

Many electronic devices, such as radios, televisions, wireless telephones, and remote controls, use infrared light to transmit signals. Infrequently, these types of electronic devices accidentally interpret the infrared light coming from a compact fluorescent bulb as a signal, causing the electronic device to temporarily malfunction or stop working. (For example, your television might suddenly change channels.) Fortunately, this only happens when light is produced at the same wavelength as the electronic device signals, which is rare. To reduce the chance of interference, avoid placing compact fluorescent bulbs near these kinds of electronic devices. If interference occurs, move the bulb away from the electronic device, or plug either the light fixture or the electronic device into a different outlet.

GE states that you should avoid placing the CFL bulbs near electronic devices. This would most definitely include garage door openers since the light bulbs on a garage door opener are right next to the operators logic board and radio receiver. It's best to stick with the garage door manufacturers recommended incandescent light bulb and wattage to avoid having problems. Most openers can accept a 60w to 100w bulb but you need to check the recommended wattage because if the wrong bulb is installed it can burn or melt the light cover.

In the long run it wouldn't pay to replace the incandescent bulb with a CFL bulb. An equivalent 60 watt CFL bulb will cost between $6 - 8. You can purchase 10 or 12 incandescent bulbs for the same price. And with garage door opener lights turning off automatically after 4-1/2 minutes it's not like the bulbs are burning that long. You'll most likely only have to replace the bulb in the garage door opener once or twice in a 15 year span. So take that CFL bulb out of your opener and put it where it will actually do some good...in your family room lamp.

UPDATE: 07/12/12: It appears that one of the garage door opener manufacturers is paying attention to this apparent problem. Liftmaster/Chamberlain has addressed CFL bulb interference on their latest garage door openers: model 8550 and model 8360 DC-motor openers. They claim to have enhanced CFL compatible lighting available on these two models using a max 27 watts CFL bulbs. If I come across any other manufacturers I will be sure to make further updates.

UPDATE: 09/01/16: Genie has come out with an LED light bulb for garage door operators that won't interfere with the radio controls on the operator. Read more about the new Genie LED bulb HERE.

Links
GE Website FAQ 
PDD Website

Garage Door Opener Remotes Stopped Working?

You drive up the driveway, press the button on your garage door remote and.....nothing! The garage door doesn't move. It could be the battery in the remote is weak and needs replaced. You just happen to have a second remote in the car...press the button and....NOTHING! O.K., it's not the battery. What are the chances of the batteries going bad in two different remotes at the same time? Pretty slim. So here are two possible solutions as to what the problem may be:

1. Lightning or Power Surge Damaged the Radio Receiver - Most people don't think about it (or may not even be aware of it) but almost all of the garage door openers produced in the past 20 years are equipped with a logic board. These boards are the brains of the opener (much like a motherboard in a computer). The logic board can be susceptible to power surges and lightning strikes....if that has happened then the operator won't work and the logic board will need to be replaced. This can cost anywhere from $50.00 up to $140 depending on the make and model of the opener (and that doesn't include the labor a service company to install it).

How can you tell if the logic board has been damaged? You'll need to get a screw driver and remove the board. Look for small burn and smoke marks on the board....if you see any then it is most likely fried. Do yourself a favor and invest in a Tripp Lite SPIKECUBE 1 Outlet Direct Plug In Surge Protector (600 Joules). It will save you a lot of money and you won't have to worry the next time a thunder storm rolls over your house.

 2. The Vacation Switch is Engaged - Almost all of the newer (past 15-20 years) openers have a wall control panel. Some of the less expensive "builder grade" openers just have a doorbell button. For the openers that have a wall control station there are usually three different function buttons: Open/Close button, Light button, and Vacation button (or lockout switch). It it not a feature that is used by many people (at least on purpose). Usually someone will press the Vacation button by accident and when they (or their spouse or children) come home....their remote won't work. When the Vacation button is engaged it will "lock out" all of the remotes and even the wireless keyless entry on some model of openers. To get the remotes to work again just disengage the Vacation switch. All the remotes should work again.

There could be other reasons that the remotes stopped working but these are two things to check before you make an appointment for a service call.

Raynor Flitestar Opener Parts

The Raynor Flitestar garage door opener. What can I say - you've probably have either had a good experience with it or you've had a bad experience - there isn't much in between. Raynor hasn't manufactured the Flitestar operator for a few years and parts for it are becoming scarce. One of the major weaknesses of the operator is the logic board. Power surges and close by lightning strikes could easily knock out the logic board. Unfortunately the logic board is one of the parts that is no longer available. Another obsolete part is the wall station. After years of use the buttons on the wall station can get sensitive and cause the opener to "act up". If the wall station "acts up" or stops working just remove it & install a regular doorbell type button.

Some parts are still available. The worm gear assembly is still available. These will sometimes snap or crack when stressed. Another part that's still available is the limit assembly. The limits tell the operator when to

stop when the door opens or closes. The limits sometimes get worn and the opener will either travel too far allowing the trolley to hit the powerhead or it may stop short leaving the door open a couple of inches. The PEC-R4 safety sensor photo-eyes are still available . The teeth on the front idler sprocket can break or wear off over time but replacements are currently available. Remote controls are still around but you'll have to read our other blog post remote controls to help determine which remote you have.

If one of the above parts has failed then I would recommend replacing that part and getting a few more years out of the opener. A new opener is nice but they can also have their drawbacks with all the new electronics and gadgets that manufacturers like to add. If the logic board has failed then you'll have no choice but to purchase a whole new operator.

UPDATE: As of February 2014 Raynor Mfg. no longer offers the PEC-R4 Replacement Sensors. There are no other sensors available at this time.

My Garage Door Won't Close - HELP

This is probably one of the most heard phrases in the garage door industry. You're late for (insert the thing your always late for here) and you back out of the garage (hopefully you've put the door up first - I've seen some that haven't). You press the remote button and ...... nothing. Press it again and ...... nothing. You yell #(*@&#!!!! Jump out of the car & run back into the garage. Cursing the damn fool who installed this thing! STOP. Take a deep breath. Now lets troubleshoot the problem - it won't take long & in the end you'll know what to do if it ever happens again .

#1 - Vacation Switch/Lock-out Button. Press the button on the wall and see if the door will close. If it does close then the problem is most likely the "Lock Out Switch" or "Vacation Switch". Just about every opener manufacturer puts these on their wall control stations (not sure why - no one ever uses them & they're a pain - that's another rant for another day). Most wall control stations will have a "Light" button (turns light on/off), "Vacation"/"Lock Out" button (locks out the remotes) and "Open/Close" button. Try disengaging the "Vacation" switch and trying your remote. If it now works you can jump back into your car & off to your appointment. If the remote still doesn't work then keep reading.

#2 - Check the Photo-eyes. The photo-eyes (or sensors) are mounted on either side of the door near the floor. There's a Emitter sensor and a Receiver sensor. These sensors have to "look" at each other so if they are knocked out alignment (kids, lawn mowers, hoses, garbage cans bumping into them can knock them out of alignment) they can't "see" each other and the opener will refuse to close door. (Side note: if you want to override the unit you can hold the close button on the wall station until the door completely closes.)

• Check & make sure sensors are aligned
• Make sure nothing is blocking sensors (garbage bag, broom, etc. - it happens more than you would think)
• Clean the lens on each sensor - sometimes dirt or grass clippings can interfere
• Check wires to the sensors & the one's going to the power head - make sure they didn't come loose
• Check & see if sun is shining on sensors. Sometimes the sun can "blind" the sensors and cause them to think an object is blocking the opening. If this is the case the sensors may need moved further into the garage.
  

#3 - Check Door Close Sensitivity. If you're not comfortable with making adjustments to the opener settings (if not done correctly you could make the problem worse) then you should call a garage door professional to check the operator. If you are mechanically minded then you should get the opener manual and find out where the sensitivity settings are. Most openers have a sensitivity setting for opening the door and closing the door. Before you adjust the sensitivity disconnect the opener from the door by pulling the emergency release. Check to see how the door balances and moves. If the door is hard to open or close the problem may not be the opener. You may need to call a professional to adjust the garage door. If the door works well manually then reconnect the opener and adjust the close sensitivity. WARNING: DON'T INCREASE TOO MUCH - FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDATIONS. If you put a 2x4 under the door & the opener doesn't reverse you need to increase the sensitivity or someone could get injured.

If you've checked all of the above and the opener still doesn't close the door - pull the emergency release (usually a red cord hanging from the trolley) and close the door manually. Lock the interior lock on the door (if it has one). Call your local garage door professional. There may be something else going on with the opener. The sensors or the logic board in the opener may not be functioning properly and need replaced.

If one of the above solutions worked then you just saved yourself a bill from your local garage door professional.

Remember, if you don't feel comfortable doing any of the above and get frustrated easily (some people don't like to do troubleshooting) then just call your friendly garage door service tech. They should be able to help you out in no time.